I dont think you can beat Dreamweaver in code veiw but what ever you do dont be tempted to use the design veiw, it only writes juck coding and you spend more time cleaning it up in the end. I find Dreamweaver better than any other editor mainly for the sake of Dreamweaver template files and the file management side of things but there are a few other bits and bobs that make hand coding pages that bit easyer, such as the snipits panel, colour coded coding and some other stuff. But no dont use WYSIWYG editors you will end up spending more time sorting out stuff the program has coded wrong than you would have just doing it all by hand.