HTMLKit is decent, & doubles as a trainer for Dreamweaver. I used HTMLKit for CSS, JS, & HTML when I was getting started a few years ago. If you really want to get your hands dirty, all you actually need is some good books, spare time, & Notepad. I use a simple notepad replacement called ironicly enough, Notepad2 & keep my references handy. I use Notepad2 because even on a 500MHZ 256MB laptop it opens files instantly, it also has configurable syntax highlighting & a few other tiny goodies.