i reccomend you look at page sources by right clicking a selecting view page source in firefox. You can get the feel of a full-fledged site that way. I also have some HTML coding tutorials you could look at. They are on the near side of completion, but I've been quite busy lately. Another great resource is the w3c and her html and css tutorials.
hmmm...this looks like a good site at first glance, I just G searched. looks like it has about 20 free templates.
If you really don't want anything to do with the code you could look into Content Management Systems like Mambo. When I first started out I used CoffeeCup HTML editor. Back then there were free versions.
Nvu is a great opensource tool, and I actually prefer it to frontpage. There are hundreds of free template providers out there...ahem...
You can try out the trial for dreamweaver, macromedia.com I don't know of any good free ones though...